April 24, 2008
Humility Would be a Good Start for Critics Says Jancis Robinson
Wine critic Jancis Robinson MW has called wine critics “parasitical” and has urged them to be more humble and honest.
Speaking at the WineCreator conference, (follows), in Ronda, Spain, conference president Robinson said, “We must always remember that we are parasites on the business of winemaking.”
Robinson further exhorted journalists to be more honest...
“We know how winemakers like to keep us sweet,” she continued, exhorting journalists to say
what they really think about wines – and to be more humble.
“We must realise we only have one palate,” she said.
The issue of critics' attitudes to wines - and winemakers' responses to consumer demands – arose several times during the two day meeting.
Peter Sisseck, winemaker for Pingus in Ribera del Duero, was angered by the suggestion made during the conference by Decanter editor Guy Woodward that some winemakers make wines to suit the palates of certain critics.
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“I don't even think it is possible to do this,” he said, calling Woodward's remarks arrogant for implying winemakers do not have their own opinions.
Robinson said that a comment by a US critic - that it is relatively easy to describe a wine with a lot fruit or tannin, and harder to describe an elegant wine - had sent a chill down her spine.
She further condemned the contradictory nature of some critics as “scary”, citing an incident wherein one critic described what he didn't like
about Spanish wine Vega Sicilia, but nonetheless gave it a good mark. 1.)

WineCreato Conference for Critics and Winemakers
Winemakers and their critics have met for the inaugural edition of WineCreator, an international conference in Ronda, Spain.
Participants in WineCreator, which took place 18-19 April, included conference president Jancis Robinson MW, moderator and Spanish
wine critic Victor de la Serna, American importer and critic David Schildknecht, and Portuguese winemaker Dirk van der Niepoort.
In her opening remarks, Robinson said she hoped everyone would take maximum advantage of the opportunity and avoid, “hot air,
platitudes and empty words”.
The theme of the conference was whether wine quality is increasing at the expense of diversity of style. Issues included vineyard
management styles, and whether the desire to make icon wines might be a losing proposition for winemakers.
“We have a responsibility to incubate good winemakers,” said American critic David Schildknecht, “rather than paying excessive attention to
top wines most people will never taste.”
Schildknecht also warned winemakers who focus too much on icon wines, rather than good wines, that they risk losing both profits and
potential customers.
On the topic of vineyard management, Dirk van der Niepoort said winemakers should not take everything they are told as gospel.
“I was told it would be “impossible” to make wine in the Douro without pesticides,” he said.
“It is possible, but it is more work and a bit more expensive in the beginning.”
Ales Kristancic, of Slovenian winery Movia, emphasised that winemaking should be about
“what is right for the plant long-term, not what is right for the wine that year.”
Victor de la Serna suggested that the debate over irrigation was masking other problems,
like the issue of growing vines in overly rich soils in places like Spain and the Languedoc.
WineCreator was hosted and funded by Spanish PR company, Groupo Penin, and a
consortium of seven property developers who are launching La Melonera, a 200 hectare
complex of vineyards attached to residences. 2.)

WineCreato an International Symposium of the World's Leading Winemakers
Twelve of the world's most influential winemakers, including Paul Draper, Peter Sisseck,
Dirk van de Niepoort and Stephane Derenoncourt are to meet in Spain to discuss the
issues confronting wine production today.
WineCreator, the first international symposium of its kind, will take place in the historic hill
city of Ronda in Malaga, Andalusia, on 18-19 April.
A panel of 20 influential wine writers including Jancis Robinson, Michel Bettane, Michael
Fridjhon and James Halliday voted in the twelve selected “Wine Creators”, who will come
face to face with the critics at the event.
Robinson will be Honourary President of the advisory committee.
The brainchild of Spanish wine commentator José Peñin and funded by wine development
project La Melonera, WineCreator, according to Peñin, serves as a tribute to creativity and
aims to present new ideas on wine production in the face of standardisation.
Treating wine as an “art form”, the event, which offers 190 places to the public, comprises
a series of discussions on topics such as terroir, trends, outside influences and the role
of the winemaker in the winery, vineyard and beyond.
Other fixtures throughout the two-day event include a round table discussion chaired by Jancis Robinson and Victor de la Serna, and a
series of tastings led by the winemakers.
WineCreator is the first in a series of international events to be held every second year in chosen cities around the world. 3.)
Sources: 1.) “Jancis Robinson: critics should show more humility,” Sophie Kevany; 2.) “Critics and winemakers convene at new conference,
” Sophie Kevany; 3.) “International symposium to gather world's leading winemakers,” Lucy Shaw, Decanter, April 24, 2008

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